Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and visitors alike praising its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, UNESCO recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a exclusive list of global cities and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it joins a global network of cities urban centers across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "stands as proof of its centuries-old culinary traditions and dynamic food ecosystem," according to a official from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of 70 cities worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this time-honored city comes as little surprise to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, chaotic, and vibrant city – the capital of India's largest state – is finally in the spotlight for what has consistently characterized its essence: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a continued dialogue from morning until going to bed in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and elevated to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of culinary innovations, fusing Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights fresh harvests but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – hidden gems that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a unpretentious joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is precise and complicated. The vendor beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but note that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will motivate more people worldwide to learn these narratives and travel to the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
